The first steps of preparing the hull seem to be quite straightforward.
The very fir
st thing I did was glue a bar around each side inside the hull packed off the side with spacers. This is so that I can cable tie the wiring to it later. Those little self adhesive pads always seem to fall off eventually and spoil a carefully executed layout.
The only change I made in the early stages was to use glass fibre tape 25mm wide to strengthen the joins as I am very aware of the stresses that will be caused by the keel weight.
The motor box does not need to be 100% watertight now that the auxilliary motor is permanent and not a retractible affair. Also most of the holes in part 3.1 are not required with the new design,
unfortunately I did not think of that until I had formed them and wasted an hour searching for the captive nut 3.6 which I eventually concluded is not now required or supplied. I have however added 2 holes to the bulkhead to allow me to get at the motor mounting screws should I ever need to remove it.
I wanted to get as far as possible before fitting the weight for ease of handling but realised that if I fitted the deck beams 8.2 & 8.3 I probably would not be able to get it in. I do however strongly advise fitting and ble
nding in the rudder concave strip 7.2 before fitting the keel.
I note that other builders have been concerned about the strength of the deck to support the masts and I have seen a couple of improvements that other builders have made which look good. What I thought I would do is forget this issue for now and install some styrene pillars dirctly from the deck beams to the keel when I am sure that I can position them without fouling anything later on.
The very fir
st thing I did was glue a bar around each side inside the hull packed off the side with spacers. This is so that I can cable tie the wiring to it later. Those little self adhesive pads always seem to fall off eventually and spoil a carefully executed layout.The only change I made in the early stages was to use glass fibre tape 25mm wide to strengthen the joins as I am very aware of the stresses that will be caused by the keel weight.
The motor box does not need to be 100% watertight now that the auxilliary motor is permanent and not a retractible affair. Also most of the holes in part 3.1 are not required with the new design,
unfortunately I did not think of that until I had formed them and wasted an hour searching for the captive nut 3.6 which I eventually concluded is not now required or supplied. I have however added 2 holes to the bulkhead to allow me to get at the motor mounting screws should I ever need to remove it.I wanted to get as far as possible before fitting the weight for ease of handling but realised that if I fitted the deck beams 8.2 & 8.3 I probably would not be able to get it in. I do however strongly advise fitting and ble
nding in the rudder concave strip 7.2 before fitting the keel.I note that other builders have been concerned about the strength of the deck to support the masts and I have seen a couple of improvements that other builders have made which look good. What I thought I would do is forget this issue for now and install some styrene pillars dirctly from the deck beams to the keel when I am sure that I can position them without fouling anything later on.
So far so good.
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